It is more than a quarter of a century since the
TV adaptation of the James Herriot veterinary sagas All Creatures Great and Small was first shown and immortalised the peaceful life of the Yorkshire Dales of the ‘40s and ‘50s. Decades on, fans of the show still flock to Yorkshire to see the places where location filming took place and enjoy other attractions that lie within the area. They are rarely disappointed, as so much of the Dales remains exactly as it was when author Alf Wight first put pen to paper.
1 THE WORLD OF JAMES HERRIOT
Just outside the national park, in Thirsk, stands the Grade II-listed Skeldale House, where the James Herriot stories were created by vet Alf Wight, who moved to this part of the world from Glasgow. The house has been restored to offer a glimpse into life here in the 1940s.
The TV series All Creatures Great and Small has been recreated in three studio sets with original props, including the Austin 7 car. Actor Christopher Timothy, who played Tristan narrates a short film that brings to life the real James Herriot story, including a rare television interview with the vet and author.
The attraction also houses Britain’s only veterinary science museum, with more than 4000 exhibits. Visitors can play at diagnosing and operating on animals in the new interactive surgery and farm.
2 FOUNTAINS ABBEY AND
STUDLEY ROYAL WATER GARDEN
Yorkshire is renowned for its ecclesiastical ruins, and Fountains Abbey is one of the finest examples in Britain – in fact, it is classed as a World Heritage Site.
The site, in the care of the National Trust and English Heritage, comprises the ruins of a 12th-century Cistercian monastery in the valley of the River Ure. It is an atmospheric, enchanting and peaceful place. The monastery, which once held vast tracts of Dales land, became ruined after its surrender to Henry VIII during the Dissolution. Also on the site are an Elizabethan mansion and the lakes of Studley Royal Water Garden, which dates from Georgian times and includes many classical statues and mock temples.
3 MIDDLEHAM CASTLE
Once the property of Richard III, Middleham Castle is now in the care of English Heritage. The fortress site dates back to Norman times, but
the remains of an earlier motte-and-bailey castle can also be seen next to the largely 14th-century ruins. The battlements offer views from one of the highest castles in England.
The boar motif of Richard III is inscribed on one of two market crosses still standing in the picturesque village of Middleham, once the administrative centre for the medieval Forest of Wensleydale.
4 LEYBURN
This vibrant Dales market town is still filled with the bustle of daily life in hill country as epitomised in the Herriot stories.
An important road junction and meeting place since earliest times, it is the principal town of Wensleydale and has a wide selection of shops
surrounding its market square, which dates back to a charter granted by Charles I. Market day, on Fridays, is not to be missed.
5 AYSGARTH FALLS
One of the defining beauty spots and tourist magnets of Herriot country is Aysgarth Falls, a series of three separate but equally spectacular cascades, the Upper, Middle and Lower Falls, where the River Ure
tumbles over a semi-circle of exposed rocks.
The Middle and Lower Falls are accessed via paths through Freeholders’ Wood, a surviving tract of the ancient Forest of Wensleydale.
Aysgarth village is home to the Yorkshire Carriage Museum, part of a craft centre set up in a former mill that is dedicated to horse-drawn vehicles.
6 ASKRIGG
The King’s Arms in Askrigg appeared in All Creatures Great and Small as the Drovers Arms, and the
building opposite was used as Skeldale House, James Herriot’s home and surgery.
Much of the filming of the series was undertaken in Askrigg and the adjacent dales of Swaledale and Coverdale, and the show’s fans will quickly recognise many of the landmarks.
The market town of Askrigg was once a centre for Dales knitting, brewing and lead trading. The old market cross still stands in a cobbled area near the church of St Oswald, as does an iron ring where bulls were once tied for baiting.
A highlight of the Wensleydale calendar is the town’s annual art exhibition held in August, which showcases the work of local artists.
7 BOLTON CASTLE
Standing above the village of Castle Bolton, this imposing structure was built in 1379 for Lord Scrope, Richard II’s Chancellor, and guarded the entrance
to Wensleydale. Mary Queen of Scots was later
imprisoned there, it survived the English Civil War, after which it was sacked by Cromwell’s forces. Today the castle, used as the location for the film Elizabeth, is open to visitors.
Two of the castle gardens have been restored to their medieval format, and the 14th-century Guest Hall is now a tea room.
If you fancy hiring a bike to see more of Herriot country, you can do so at the castle.
8 WENSLEYDALE RAILWAY
The new Wensleydale Railway Company last year ran its first trains over the 12 miles between Leyburn and Leeming Bar using heritage diesels; it had not seen passengers since 1954.
Local residents had fought to reopen the line through Wensleydale, following a national campaign in the late ‘80s to save the Settle and Carlisle Line.
This year, the company aims to run all 22 miles from Redmire, the stop for Castle Bolton, to Northallerton, and may also introduce steam. This is a cheap and convenient way to cross the Yorkshire Dales, linking towns and attractions, and to see the sweeping countryside that the motorists miss.
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