| Gt Escapes: Scottish Borders 3 |
| Driving route: From Kelso to the coast |
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So far, we have concentrated on the towns west of Kelso but there is also plenty to see out towards the east. Within a short drive, you can be skirting the border with England, and then weaving your way through some
spectacular coastline cliffs and tiny fishing villages. Along the way, you’ll pass through charming towns and see some impressive stately homes. It’s a great route for scenery, and a great route to drive.
1 COLDSTREAM
This little town lies just a few miles north-east of Kelso, and is separated from England only by the width of the River Tweed, which runs along the bottom of the town. It is from here that the Coldstream Guards originate, and a memorial stone with their crest and motto can be seen in Henderson Park.
2 DUNS
Duns is a pretty enough town, but its biggest pull is the Jim Clark Room of its museum. Commemorating the life of one of the world’s greatest motor racing drivers, it is full of memorabilia, photos, paintings, and trophies depicting the life of the one-time farm
boy who became a motor racing legend. Although born in Fife in 1936, Jim Clark lived near Duns for most of his life, after his father took charge of a farm in nearby Chirnside.
Jim began racing in the 1950s with a Mk III Sunbeam Talbot saloon, after which his racing
career blossomed, and in 1958 he won the Spa Grand Prix. He joined Team Lotus, run by Colin Chapman, two years later. Lotus’ faith in him was rewarded with a second place in the Formula One championship that year. Thereafter, he twice won the world motor racing championship and twice achieved third place. He also made his mark as the first Briton to win the Indianapolis 500 in 1965. Jim died in 1968, during a race at Hockenheim. After his death, his parents donated his racing trophies to Duns Town Council.
3 MANDERSTON HOUSE
Just outside Duns lies the impressive Manderston House, home of Lord and Lady Palmer. The house, and its basement which runs the whole length of
the building, was used by Channel 4 TV as the basis for its Edwardian Country House series. It is claimed that it is also the only house in the world with a
silver staircase.
4 PAXTON HOUSE
Paxton House lies very close to the border and is a popular venue as it is one stately home where
children will not get bored because in addition to
the house and gardens, there are lots of activities for children. There’s a large playground which includes an impressive ‘death slide’ and look-out tower.
There are nature trails, too, and a special hide
where you can view rare red squirrels if you’re lucky. There are plenty of walks in the grounds, which stretch right down to the river – you may be able to see deer, hares, heron, salmon and cormorants
here, too. At the river, an exhibition mounted in Paxton’s reconstructed boat house illustrates how salmon is traditionally fished.
5 EYEMOUTH
The road to Eyemouth is a lovely one: you’ll pass through some stunning scenery coloured by the greens, yellows and violets of the borders. If it’s a good day, you’ll suddenly see the sky brighten up in the east, and that will be the reflection of the sea which adds a brilliant sheen to the land.
Eyemouth is a lovely little fishing town with a sandy bay. It has been a Burgh of Barony since
1597 and has always been a busy port, from the time of smuggler’s dealings in the 19th century to the brisk fishing trade of today. For visitors, one of
the key attractions is the town’s museum, which depicts life in Eyemouth over the centuries.
This includes displays on milling, farming,
wheelwrighting, netmaking and sailmaking.
The most poignant and interesting part of the
exhibition is certainly the tapestries which portray the loss of 189 fishermen during the Great Storm
of 1881. One morning that year, the town’s 40
fishing vessels set out on a bright sunny morning.
By lunchtime, an immense hurricane blew up,
seemingly from nowhere, and 189 fishermen and half the fleet were lost. Some boats ran before
the storm, only to end up as far away as Norway. Others attempted to reach the Scottish shore and did actually make port but yet others came to
grief at the harbour’s entrance, just a stone’s
throw from dry land. Because of the appalling
conditions, onlookers and relatives could do nothing as they watched their loved ones perish against
the rocks and drown. The tapestry, which took two years to make, records the men that drowned.
The name of the first boat recorded on the tapestry, the Forget-me-not, symbolises the depth of feeling which still exists in Eyemouth.
6 ST ABBS
Just a few miles up the coast lies the little fishing hamlet of St Abbs. It’s worth a visit, not least for its extreme beauty. Also, about a mile outside the town, you can visit the St Abbs nature reserve.
In St Abbs itself and along the coast, back to Eyemouth, you will find the Voluntary Marine Reserve, which strives to protect the area’s unique marine habitat. The coastal waters here offer
spectacular marine scenery as the sea is
uncommonly clear and does not suffer from silt as
do the waters to the north and south. Not far from
St Abbs, children can go rockpooling at Coldingham beach, one of the rocky shore areas in the Reserve.
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Suitable for all the family
Tourist information
Scottish Borders Tourist Board Information Service.
Tel 0870 608 0404
Refreshments
The Tearooms, Paxton House.
Serves sandwiches, tasty meals, and home-baked
produce, at reasonable prices.
Attractions
Coldstream Tourist Information
Tel 0870 608 0404
Jim Clark Room (Duns)
Tel 01361 883960
Manderston House
Tel 01361 882450
Paxton House
Tel 01289 386291
Eyemouth Museum and Tourist Information
Tel 01890 750678
• Tip On many of the roads in the Borders region, especially on this route to the sea, you’ll be tempted to pull in and enjoy the view. If you do stop, park sensibly, as many roads are twisty and hilly, and
your parked car may be
hidden from the view of
other motorists.
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