Away from its coast, Northumberland is dominated by the moorland and forests of the Northumberland National Park, Kielder Forest Park and the Cheviot Hills. This vast wilderness is straddled on its southern edge by Hadrian’s Wall, built 2000 years ago to protect Rome’s northernmost border from the tribes of Scotland.
A tour of the county’s interior takes in a swathe of ancient history, some fascinating attractions and one of England’s least populated areas. A bonus is that most of this countryside is extremely beautiful.

1 Heatherslaw and Etal
Having followed the Tweed (and therefore the border) inland from Berwick, turn south on the A697 just before Coldstream. A mile or so off to the left you’ll come to the villages of Heatherslaw and Etal, linked by the two-mile long Heatherslaw Light Railway.
In Heatherslaw, take a look at the Corn Mill, set on the banks of the River Till. Then, back across the bridge, catch one of the tiny 15-inch-gauge trains to Etal – there’s an hourly service.
The pretty village of Etal is home to what is said to be the only thatched pub in the county (The Black Bull) and a castle that houses displays on the battle of Flodden Field, the site of which is four miles west.

2 Morpeth
Continuing south, you’ll come to the market town of Morpeth. Set on the River Wansbeck, Morpeth has three bridges and a variety of architectural styles.
A must for the visitor is Morpeth Chantry. Built as a chapel at the end of the 13th century, and subsequently used as a grammar school, it has since been restored and converted into an excellent craft centre and tourist information office.
Pride of place in the Chantry, must go to the bagpipe museum – it’s an unexpected gem. The museum is imaginatively laid out and covers bagpipes from all over the world. You’re issued with a headset gadget that allows you to pick up the music of the pipes you’re looking at. It’s an absolute must.

3 Hexham
South from Morpeth on the A1, then west on the A69, is the handsome town of Hexham.
It has a fine bridge across the Tyne and a magnificent Abbey which dominates the market place at the centre of town. In the Abbey are a host of artefacts that create a sense of history. They include the tombstone of Flavinus, which shows him – a standard-bearer in the Roman army – riding down a bearded barbarian, the 8th-century frith stool and the 15th-century Dance of Death close to the altar. All that, coupled with the Moot Hall, the Old Gaol with its stocks and pillory, and the numerous alleys and archways around the town centre bear witness to an historical importance out of all proportion to the current size of the town.

4 Hadrian's Wall, Chesters Fort and the Temple of Mithras
The star attraction of this part of Northumberland is the 73-mile Hadrian’s Wall, a continuous barrier from the Tyne estuary to the Solway Firth, built by the Romans to help control the unconquered tribes to the north. Every mile of the wall was punctuated by a milecastle, between each pair of which were two signalling turrets. In addition, at every six to nine miles stood a fort. A continuous broad ditch, the vallum, ran behind the wall.
One of the best-conserved sections of the wall lies alongside the B6318, on the stretch from Chollerford to Haltwhistle. At Chesters Fort, an excellent museum introduces you to one of the best-preserved cavalry forts of the empire with a model, numerous displays and countless large monuments. Beyond it stands the fort itself, with each section clearly labelled.
Two miles on and some 300 metres from the road, the Carrawburgh temple, built by Roman soldiers in honour of the sun-god Mithras, nestles in a hollow.

5 Hadrian's Wall – Housesteads
Dominating the hillside some seven miles west, at Housesteads, are the well-preserved remains of an infantry fort. It contained a headquarters building, the commander’s house, granaries, barracks, a hospital, latrines, and four impressive gates. It’s a fair climb up from the roadside café to the reception block where you buy your tickets, but once there, the small museum, the detailed information boards, and the views make the climb worthwhile.
A walk westward from the fort brings you to one of the most spectacular stretches of the wall itself, soaring and plunging along the natural escarpment upon which it was built. There are many other remains to be seen along the Northumberland stretch of the wall, all with excellent information boards. There’s a bus service along its length, and a well-marked footpath if you’re feeling energetic. You can’t hope to cover this World Heritage site in one visit – but you’ll be back.

6 Northumberland National Park
Northwards from Hadrian’s Wall lie the 400 or so square miles of Northumberland National Park, which stretches to the Cheviot Hills in the north and the Border Forest Park in the west. This is excellent walking and cycling country, criss-crossed by bus routes, cycle tracks and footpaths, with three information points in different parts of the park. Look out for the white Land Rovers of the Park Authority Rangers who are always happy to provide information and advice.

7 Kielder Water
Set in the heart of miles of forest and open country is one of Europe’s largest reservoirs – Kielder Water. It is a major holiday centre, not just for water sports but for a host of other activities. On the southern shore of the lake, a splendid Caravan Club site has a gate giving access to the extensive facilities of Leaplish Waterside Park. There are further facilities at Tower Knowe Visitor Centre. A ferry – the Osprey – allows you to see this end of the lake in style: it has a bar, shop, heated lounge, toilets, and a full commentary.
At the other end of the Lake, Kielder Castle, once a hunting lodge of the Duke of Northumberland, has displays on local wildlife, art exhibitions and a maze, together with full information about leisure activities.