| Great escapes: Normandy 5 |
| Going Swiss |
| For a change of scenery venture into the area known as
Swiss Normandy, named for its cliffs, gorges and wooded valleys |
The area known as Swiss Normandy lies mostly in southern Calvados and makes for a strange phenomenon in the
otherwise gentle hills of the Normandy landscape. As its name suggests, it is an area of deep gorges, high rocky cliffs and wooded valleys. Running through it is the Orne river which is popular with canoeists, water-skiers,
hang-gliders and rock climbers as well as walkers.
This is Normandy's great outdoors and it is surprisingly less crowded than other parts of the region, making it an attractive option for a hassle-free drive.
In addition to its wonderful scenery, it has many interesting towns and villages to explore.
1. The home of the Conqueror
In the car, make your way to Falaise which lies 34km south-east of Caen and is the largest town near Swiss Normandy. On entering Falaise from the north or south on the N158 turn westwards at the second roundabout, following signs for the town centre and the Château Guillaume-Le-Conquérant. Leave the car in the car park opposite the church at the entrance to the Château.
Widely considered the gateway to Swiss Normandy, Falaise is not only an excellent starting point for this tour but is also worth a visit for its historic eminence. Its significant role in the history of Normandy and England centres around its castle, the Château Guillaume-Le-Conquérant (above), an enormous fortress built on a rocky promontory above the River Ante and dominating the town.
It was in this castle that William the Conqueror was born in 1027, the son of Robert the Magnificent and Arlette, the beautiful daughter of a local tanner. He is the subject of an impressive statue in the Place Guillaume-le-Conquérant in which he is depicted astride a rearing horse and brandishing a banner (right). Decorating its pedestal are smaller statues, erected in 1875, of the first six dukes of Normandy. An hour-long tour of the castle tells the story of William, crowned King of England in 1066, and the lives of his family and descendants.
2. Thury-Harcourt
Zero your trip meter. Exit the car park at the Place Guillaume-le-Conquérant and head north on the N158 for 2.5km, then turning left onto the D6 in the direction of Thury-Harcourt and continuing for 27.2 km. Don't be put off by the next stretch, a rather
unimpressive 43km; it leads to a scenic 8km drive towards the heart of Swiss Normandy, arriving finally at the town of Thury-Harcourt itself.
The busy shopping town of Thury-Harcourt sits at the northern edge of Swiss Normandy and is a pleasant tourist centre, its attractions including the park and gardens of its Château. The Château Thury-Harcourt and its original park and gardens were burned down in 1944, but the grounds have since been restored. There are three gardens in total, one of which is a rose garden, as well as a terrace whose four lawns are bordered by flowers and make a particularly pleasant corner. You should allow at least an hour to fully appreciate the display.
Thury-Harcourt also boasts the first aquatic complex in Calvados. Le Centre Aquatique de la Suisse Normande is situated in the middle of woodland in the Traspy valley, just minutes from the main shopping thoroughfare. With its water chutes, jacuzzi and waterfalls plus an entertainment and games area, it is a popular inland venue.
3. The heart of Suisse Normande
Zero your trip meter and from Thury-Harcourt take the D562 southwards for 10.7km to Clécy.
The centre of Swiss Normandy, Clécy is more of a large village than a town but it has plenty of amusements to lure the tourist, including a miniature railway, an apple fair and several museums.
It is also the favourite starting place for walkers exploring the area. Within site of Clécy (below) is Sugar Loaf rock which commands a fine view for climbers who reach the summit. For the less energetic, a short detour in the car, following the route of the Orne River and offering superb scenery, should not be missed.
4. An idyllic lunch-stop
From Clécy bear left onto the D133a and continue 1.9km eastwards to Le Vey, where you should be able to find somewhere to park.
Be sure to stop at Le Vey to soak up the amazing scenery. Here the fast waters, gorges, rock faces, waterfalls and lush greenery momentarily transport you from Normandy to such places as Ardeche or Jura.
Cross the bridge to the east bank of the river and you will discover the Hostellerie du Moulin du Vey, a country hotel bedecked with ivy and flowers and situated in an idyllic location at the water's edge. It's the perfect place to stop for lunch, though one of the humble cafés lining the riverside road will suffice as an alternative.
Return to the west bank, continue walking alongside the river for 1km and you will suddenly encounter a huge viaduct where the river crashes furiously over the rocks. Here canoeists take their chances while dare-devil climbers scale the face of the colossal structure.
5. La Roche d'Oetre
Return to the car and drive back to Clécy on the 133a for 2.9km. In Clécy turn left onto the D562 in the direction of Condé-sur-Noireau for 3.5km, then left again onto the D1 for 8km to the riverside town of Pont D'Ouilly. Here, bear right off the D1 at 0.6km east of the town and onto the D167. Continue for 3.5km to Le-Mensil-Villement and turn right onto the D329 signed Breel. Continue for 3km to the junction with the D301 where you will come across the Roche d'Oetre, with parking nearby.
The Roche d'Oetre commands a panoramic extravaganza across the surrounding countryside, and on seeing this rock one immediately understands why it is hailed Swiss Normandy's most famous viewpoint. The rock overlooks the deep valley of La Rouvre and the craggy hills that give the area its name. It is a short walk to the top of the viewpoint.
6. A last look around
From the Roche d'Oetre continue south east on the D301 for 5.6km to the pretty hamlet of Menil-Hermei. Here turn right onto the D239 for 4.5km to Rabodanges, another such hamlet. Continuing for 2.4km south west on a local road from the village leads to a car park by a bridge over the River Orne.
Stop here and take stock of the scenic surroundings. Upstream lie the Gorges de St.Aubert, while the wide expanse of the river around Rabodanges is a haven for watersports.
Return to Rabodanges and turn right onto the D329 for 3km to the junction with D909. Now turn left onto the D909 and continue north for 13km back to Falaise.
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Distance 96km
Time 6 hours
Start/finish Place Guillaume-le-Conquérant, Falaise
Suitable for All the family
Refreshment
Hostellerie du Moulin du Vey
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 69 71 08
Attractions
Château Guillaume-Le-Conqérant, Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 41 61 44
Parc et Jardins du
Chateau Harcourt-Thury
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 79 72 05
Information
Falaise
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 90 17 26
Thury-Harcourt
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 79 70 45
Clécy
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 69 79 95
• Tip
Tourist offices may close Monday
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