| Great escapes: Normandy 2 |
| The cirder route |
| Take the official Route de Cidre to taste the region's finest cider
– remembering first to decide which one of you is going to drive |
As you travel the country roads of Calvados, there are many signposted 'routes touristiques' which
catch your eye. These tourist circuits have been specially devised for walkers, cyclists and motorists to enable them to easily discover for themselves the area's historic sites, varied countryside, friendly people and, not least, its reputed products.
One such product is the eponymous apple brandy which is mostly enjoyed as a digestif at the end of a meal. Another is cider, the more freely drunk beverage and the one we chose to pursue.
1. A look around Lisieux
We start our route in Lisieux, entering the town from the east on the N13, which brings you into Rue de Paris. Continue straight on into Rue Henry Cheron, passing the tourist office on the right, before entering the car park at the Place Mitterand. Leave the car here to explore the town.
Lisieux is capital of the Pays d'Auge – the Normandy of thatched roofs, timber-fronted
cottages, fine cheeses, cider and, of course, Calvados. Follow today's route on a Wednesday during the summer and arrive back in time for the famous evening market to stock up with renowned cheeses such as Camembert, Pont L'Evêque and Livarot before returning to your caravan site.
• On the road
Zero the trip meter. Exit the car park at Lisieux and turn right into Rue Henry Cheron. Continue straight on, following signs for the N13 to Caen. Proceed on the N13 for 7.5km to Boissière, turning right as you follow signs
for Route de Cidre (below, left) on
the D59.
Within minutes of leaving the
buzz of Lisieux, you enter the
tranquil trail of cider makers. Farm after farm lines this route, which takes in at least
two dozen recognised
producers which welcome visitors.
At many farms you'll be able to taste the cider, Calvados and pommeau (an apéritif made with cider and Calvados) and to visit
cellars, cider-making plants and,
on selected farms, old presses.
To be sure the product is of high quality, ask for Appellation Controlée, Pays d'Auge. You'll know you are tasting some of the best cider around if you spot any award-winning cups on display,
the results of the cider makers' annual competitions.
2. A stop-off at Bonnebosq
From the beginning of the D59 road at Boissière to Bonnebosq,
a distance of 10.4km, the road passes through some delightful, undulating vistas, tree-lined routes and pretty landscapes as it twists and dips along its way.
At 3.5km look out for the ancient Abbaye du Val Richer on your left. Only its
exterior can be visited, as is the case for the Château de la Roque-Baignard 2km later, which announces your arrival in Bonnebosq after a crossroads with the D117.
Bonnebosq is a sizeable but pretty town and a good place to stretch your legs. Leave the car in the parking space on Rue de Lisieux and enjoy the pretty picture conjured by the old timbered houses (above) and the manor of Champ-Versan, which is open to visitors Wednesday-Sunday from April to September.
3. A taster chez M. Cenier
Zero your trip meter. Leave Bonnebosq and take the D16
south west in the direction of Rumesnil for 3km. Now turn right onto a local road for Repentigny, which you will reach after 0.6km. Here you will find the farm of M. Cenier.
Should you call at the farm of
M. Cenier, you will get a friendly reception from Madame. The Cenier family are primarily dairy farmers but are knowledgeable about cider, too, which they also produce. Proudly displayed are
the silver cups they have won:
first prize for cidre brut in the Cambremer area in 2001 and second prize for Calvados in 2000.
4. A sip in St Aubin
Back on the local road, continue for 1.3km to the junction with D276, then turn left and follow the hairpin bend through Druval, continuing for a further 2.4km to the village of Beaufour which sits at the northern-most point on the cider route. From here take the D146 south-west for 2.7km to St Aubin Lebizay.
At St Aubin Lebizay you will find another award-winning farm (above) situated just off the D146 as you arrive in the town. This belongs to the Desvoye family, whose
reputation for cider and Calvados production goes back to the 1800s. Walls decorated with trophies
testify their expertise and
high-quality products.
5. Take in a view
Stay on the D146 for 1.5km until you reach a T-junction. Here, turn right and continue for 0.5km, passing through Clermont-en-Auge, bearing immediately right at the sign for
'Eglise St Michel de Clermont'.
Leave the car in the small parking area at the Church of St Michel de Clermont and walk approximately 100 yards to appreciate the fine panorama of the hilly Auge country as it meets the flat, reclaimed marshland beyond.
6. Beautiful Beuvron
Return to the car and drive back to the D146. Here turn right and continue for 2.7km to Beuvron-en-Auge. Park in the centre of the village.
Immediately you arrive in Beuvron-en-Auge, it strikes you
as a truly beautiful village, full of traditional, timbered houses,
some with huge beams supporting their façades (right). For a spot of refreshment stop at the excellent Pavé d'Auge.
7. The heart of cider country
Departing Beuvron-en-Auge
and continuing south-east for 3.2km takes you through the hamlet of
Victot on the D49. Continue, and 0.5km after the junction with the
D16 the route swings northwards for 4km, following the Dorette river to St.Gilles-de-Livet before turning
southwards on the D85 for 4km,
finally arriving in Cambremer.
A lthough it's a neat and unpretentious village, Cambremer is nevertheless a big name when it comes to Normandy cider, and you know you've found the very best vintage when you see the sign
'Cru de Cambremer' which means 'Cambremer Pressing'.
The remainder of the Route de Cidre will bring you back onto the N13. Continue for 17.5km and you will eventually arrive back where you began the tour, at the car park in the Place Mitterrand, Lisieux. Remember to head for the Wednesday evening market if you're there at the right time.
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Distance 67 km
Start/finish
Place Mitterand, Lisieux
Suitable for Adults, particularly cider buffs
Refreshment
Le Pavé d'Auge, Beuvron-en-Auge
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 79 26 71
Attractions
Farm of M.Cenier, Repentigny
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 64 38 69
Farm of M. Desvoye,
St Aubin-Lebizay
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 65 11 94
L'Eglise St Michel de Clermont, Clermont-en-Auge
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 63 02 45
Information
Office de Tourisme, Lisieux
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 48 18 10
• Tip
The Route du Cidre is well marked, so no map is needed
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