| Great escapes: Normandy 1 |
| Beside the sea |
| Witness for yourself the charm, character and glorious beaches which have attracted artists and holidaymakers for centuries |
Most of us who have seen pictures of Honfleur and
neighbouring of Trouville and Deauville, towns immortalised by the great painters of the 19th century, will have vowed to one day visit these grandiose spots on Normandy's northern coastline. But how often do we simply hurry past on our way south?
La Côte Fleurie ('Floral Coast'), along which these towns lie, is none the less far from neglected. Its sandy beaches and undulating cliffs stretch from the mouth of the river Dives to the beginning of the Seine estuary, with each of the resorts along the way offering a unique experience.
1. An impression of Honfleur
In the car, make your way to Honfleur. Entering the town on the D579, drive over the second roundabout into Rue de la République, then turn right into Rue Monpensier, continuing through Rue des Vases and Quai Tostain until you arrive at the car park at Quai de la Cale. Leave the car in the car park here.
Honfleur (pictured, above) is so picturesque that it would be difficult to find a reason to dislike it – except, perhaps, for the crowds. Attributing to the volume of tourists is the Pont
de Normandie suspension bridge. Since its opening in 1995 it has
provided the town with a direct link across the Seine estuary to
Le Havre and Upper Normandy. Prior to this Honfleur enjoyed the privacy of a less accessible corner of the coastline.
Much praised, painted and photographed is Honfleur's
17th-century harbour area, the Vieux Bassin. Here the seafaring atmosphere still prevails and the original setting of the 'Old Dock' attracts many yachts, with no
shortage of British flags atop the many masts.
Complementing the setting
and fronting one side of the harbour are a number of squat, stone houses with low, sloping roofs while
adjacent is a line of ancient,
tall and precarious-looking houses, their wooden facades leaning towards the water to create a charming reflection.
The surrounding district is worth investigating for its narrow streets and, not least, L'Eglise St Catherine, the largest wooden church in France, built almost entirely from oak. The square around the church is the scene of a colourful market but it is easy to see what really made Honfleur a source of inspiration to the Impressionists, many of whose paintings can be appreciated at the Musée Eugene Boudin. The Vieux Bassin is one of France's most delightful harbours and
today artists continue to line the nearby quay as they attempt to capture its essence.
2. Tropical France
For another of Honfleur's attractions, return to the car, zero the trip meter and turn right onto the Quai de la Quarantaine. Turn right again after crossing the bridge and continue on the D513 for 1.8km until you reach Naturospace, which is clearly signed.
Naturospace (above) is a
man-made rain forest where visitors can escape the rush of the outside world and commune with nature in this unique habitat.
Here, in 800 square metres of
tropical paradise, many wonderful species of butterflies flit freely among the extraordinary trees and brilliantly coloured flowers which flourish in a constant temperature of 28º C.
3. Mixing with the jet set
Zero your trip meter. Rejoin the D513 and continue for 13.2km until you reach the parking space on the Boulevard Fernand Moureaux near the Casino in Trouville. Leave the car here.
The 17th-century town of Trouville-sur-Mer, whose beaches are lovingly portrayed in the
19th-century paintings of Boudin, is said to be the oldest seaside resort in France. It is separated from neighbouring Deauville only by the River Touques, though the towns are connected by a bridge. Both towns are well known for their expensive price tags, though it is Deauville which earned the reputation of the ritziest resort in northern France.
Deauville began to flourish when well-known aristocrats started to build exclusive villas on the stretch of beach spanning the Touques, and today the town continues to attract nobility and the rich, as well as a number of movie stars and sports celebrities. With its grand hotels, designer boutiques and a casino decked out with marble staircases and glittering chandeliers, it's easy to feel glamourous here. Even if you don't want to splash out, you can still get a sense of decadence with a walk along the 800-metre wooden promenade to admire the
magnificent golden beach, or simply by sitting at a café and watching the world stroll by.
4. Villers-sur-Mer
Zero your trip meter. Leave Trouville and travel west on the D513 for 8km to Villers-sur-Mer. Parking should be easy enough to find.
A considerably less pretentious and less crowded resort than Trouville and Deauville is Villers-sur-Mer, which is known for its huge, sandy beach, its fossil-rich cliffs and its rolling, green countryside in the south, which takes in some 35km of pathways. The seafront is just the place to keep cool if temperatures decide to soar, and the town also hosts summer music festivals. Guided tours of the town and countryside are available.
5. Houlgate and Cabourg
Zero your trip meter. From Villers-sur-Mer continue on the D513 for 7km until you reach Houlgate and, after a further 4km, Cabourg.
Cabourg, which lies on the Dives estuary, was billed in the 19th century as having 'the most
beautiful beach within five hours of Paris'. It retains its looks to this day. At the heart of the town stands the Grand Hôtel; adjoining it is the Casino. From this central point fans a maze of avenues of striking gabled villas and lovely, tree-shaded gardens.
The writer Marcel Proust brought fame to the town and this hotel when he included them in his book A L'Ombre des Jeunes Filles en Fleurs, and it is possible to stay in the room thought to be favoured by Proust when he visited.
On the other side of the estuary, Houlgate may have less to brag about but in many ways has more appeal. It offers a good beach
overlooked by a row of fine mansion houses and its town centre is quietly attractive.
Both Houlgate and Cabourg enjoy a reputation for being relaxing and friendly. They prove consistently popular with ordinary holidaymakers, and during the annual film festival you might be able to spot a few star faces, too.
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Distance 101/2 km
Time 7.5 hours
Start Quai de la Cale, Honfleur
Finish Promenade, Cabourg
Suitable for All the family
Refreshment
Crêperie du Port, Trouville
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 88 16 60
Attractions
Musée Eugene Boudin
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 89 54 00
Naturospace
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 81 77 00
Information
Calvados Tourist Board
Tel 00 33 (0)2 31 27 90 30
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