Even in the centre of Jersey you are only ever a few miles from the sea, a fact reflected in every part of island life. From the amazing selection of seafood to the fortifications and castles which dot the coastline, Jersey’s sea-bound geography is an intrinsic part of its history. Take any of the roads across the island and before long you will be heading down towards a sandy bay or pretty coastal village. Jersey has more than just a seaside atmosphere; it combines the fresh air and clear light of the coast with the equally appealing sights of
fishing boats, clapboard houses and ruined forts
– without any hint of tackiness.
Unsurprisingly, there is a wide choice of water sports to take part in. Sailing, kayaking, windsurfing and even kitesurfing take place side by side, with
little of the jostling associated with the mainland.
1 Fish market in St Helier
Right in the centre of the town, the fish market can
be found opposite the larger general market.
Arrive early for the freshest catch, although the
fishmongers are open until 5pm most days.
The displays of fish and shellfish are spectacular and sure to catch your culinary imagination. Brighter, larger, plumper – the selection shames the average display on the mainland. Lobster and crabs are particularly numerous, and oysters are both abundant and very affordable. Shellfish fans who like to get their hands a little messy can buy a decent quantity of unpeeled, cooked prawns for just
over £1, all ready to take away and heat up with
a little garlic butter.
2 Maritime Museum
Open since 1997, this modern lively museum is not the musty, austere place one might expect. In fact, soon after opening it was awarded the National Heritage/NPI Museum of the Year Award. A really hands-on experience, the museums exhibits, housed in three granite warehouses, will fire the imaginations of adults and children alike.
Meet the ‘Phantom Shanty Man’ (a mysterious ghostly jukebox), learn how a sailing boat travels by playing with a model yacht and wind machine, or admire an array of ornate sailors’ knots. The
museum covers all aspects of seafaring – both myth and history – and there is masses to look at as well as audio displays and technical demonstrations.
3 Elizabeth Castle
Give yourself plenty of time to explore this
impressive fort on an outlying islet, approached either on foot across a causeway, or from the seafront by a ‘Puddleduck’ – a kind of aquatic bus. Once there, you can visit numerous buildings and turrets. Many of the attractions are outside, so keep an eye on the weather before heading over.
Local historians suggest that the history of the
castle could be neatly summed up by the phrase: “Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition.” During the first 1000 years of its recorded history, it was a religious haven associated with St Helier, who according to legend saved Jersey from the Vandals in 550AD. The site lost its religious role when the island converted to Protestantism during the Reformation.
The castle was used again in 1550 in the reign of King Edward VI, when a gun platform was built on the highest point of the islet for defence against the French. Edward’s sister, Queen Elizabeth I, ordered a castle to be constructed on the site 40 years later.
It was named after the monarch by Sir Walter Ralegh, Governor of the island between 1600 and 1603.
4 La Corbiere Lighthouse
This lighthouse, on the south-westerly tip of the island, is approached by a causeway at low tide. No amphibious vehicles this time, so you will need to check the tides if you want to pay a visit. The
lighthouse was manned by four keepers who
lived in the nearby cottages until 1976, when it became fully automated.
The lighthouse also marks the beginning of the stunning stretch of sand called St Ouen’s Bay. This
is an immense swathe of beach, popular with both windsurfers and sandbuggies due to its exposure to the prevailing wind. Sea cliffs on this side of the island are rich with mauve-coloured thrift, daisies and coconut-scented broom.
5 Watersports
Jersey’s expanse of ragged coastline means you can usually find whatever conditions you are looking for, be it calm or blowy, sandy or rocky, all without the crowds of many mainland beaches.
St Brelades is the most popular beach for general activities such as sailing, surfing or just hiring a
pedalo for the afternoon. There is a lifeguard, too. St Ouen’s attracts the windsurfers and kite-flyers, who want to take advantage of the south-westerly gusts and the smooth stretch of sand. There are also many smaller sheltered bays along the north coast, where the water tends to be cooler and deeper.
7 Frere de Mer Restaurant
In 1999 the Bistro Frère was taken over by chefs Victoria Sharp and Jenny Donaldson and turned into the Frère de Mer. They kept the best aspects from the already established restaurant and added a wealth of their own expertise. Today, the Frère de Mer is
a lovely spot in which to enjoy the best seafood and some thoroughly modern cooking. When the sun
terrace is open, you can enjoy one of the most
spectacular views on the island – across the 15-mile strip of sea to the coast of France.
The local scallops are especially recommended. They are almost indistinguishable from the mainland varieties, due to their enormous size and plump flesh. Lobster is also available and prepared in
a variety of ways including the famous ‘Thermidor’.
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