| Great weekends: Cotswolds 1 |
| Saturday: Cheltenham |
| With its impressive Regency architecture and attractive historic parks, Cheltenham is an idyllic centre for both culture and shopping |
Cheltenham was built around its natural spring, but this elegant spa town is also renowned for its Regency architecture, splendid shopping malls, landscaped parks, horse racing and festivals. Our town walk is the perfect way to see the very best of its many charms. And with over 100 shops open seven days a week (from 11am on Sundays), there will be something to occupy all the family.
1. Regency reconnaissance
From The Camping and Caravanning Club's Winchcombe site, zero your car's trip meter and turn left onto the B4077. At the roundabout at 3.3 miles turn left onto the A46 for Cheltenham. On entering the town at 11.2 miles turn right at the traffic lights then immediately left and left again into the car park on North Place (parking is £2.50 for up to four hours). Leaving the car park on foot, turn right onto North Place then first left onto Clarence Road to enter Clarence Square on West Drive.
Clarence Square was built in the early 1800s and named after the Duke of Clarence, later crowned William IV. Next to it is Wellington Square. Both are delightfully landscaped greens well worth taking a stroll around.
2. Miracle cure
Return to West Drive and head north, following the road round until you meet Evesham Road. Cross the road via the underpass which brings you out next to the beautiful ornamental lake in the Pitville Park's splendid gardens.
Pittville Park is home to the famous Pump Room Museum. Dating back to 1825, the elegant spa building is the centrepiece of Joseph Pitt's estate of villas, terraces and lawns. The Room still houses the pump which dispenses the spa water, and it is still possible to 'take the waters' - back in the 18th century the alkaline properties o f these waters were hailed as a miraculous cure for all known maladies, from rheumatism to worms. We tried it but it just tastes a bit salty!
3. A musical museum
From the Pump Rooms, continue through the Park keeping to the left of the lake until you get to a road called Pittville Lawn. Follow this road all the way to Pittville Gate, originally the official entrance to the estate, and the Holst Birthplace Museum, on the other side of Clarence Road.
No. 4 Clarence Road is the birthplace of Gustav Holst, composer of The Planets Suite, and a museum which tells the story of his life. Not only can you can see his piano and listen to his music but the museum also offers a fascinating insight into Victorian and Edwardian life.
4. Holy houses
Turn left outside the Holst Birthplace Museum and left again onto Portland Street for the Holy Trinity Church, with its crypt and war memorials, before continuing down to the main road and Pitville Street.
Take the second left turning, onto Albion Street. Fifty yards up on the left are the almshouses.
The six almshouses standing here date back to 1811, though their history began 400 years ago when their founder Richard Pate built them for needy, church-going Cheltenham pensioners .
5. Montpellier miscellany
Return to Pittville Street and head south towards the town centre. Turn left onto the High Street and immediately right into Regent Street. 50 yards down on the left stop at the Fine Cheese Company to pick up an award-winning cheese and freshly baked bread for a picnic. Pass the impressive Everyman Theatre on the left and follow its bend around to the left onto Imperial Square. Turn right here, cross the road and enter the Imperial Gardens behind the splendid town hall to enjoy your cheese roll lunch. Continue along Imperial Square and follow the road round to the left and onto Montpellier Spa Road, where the new terrace incorporates an alcove housing a marble fountain. This brings you to Montpellier Gardens. Walk through to the centre of the Gardens and the bandstand.
Dating back to 1864, the bandstand in Montpellier Gardens is the oldest still in use in this country. The gardens themselves date back as far as 1809 and are framed by majestic lime trees. Across the park, on the other side of the bandstand, a Barclays Bank now occupies the old Montpellier Spa Building. This is dated 1817 and was formerly a venue for high-society parties. Although it is now a bank, visitors are still permitted to view the interior of the building. Opposite is a statue of Edward VII, known locally as the Rotunda, that was erected four years after his death.
6. Shopping heaven
Stroll up Montpellier Walk and turn left into Montpellier Street.
The shops in Montpellier Walk are distinguished by the use of statues (the Caryatids) in place of supporting pillars. In the summer they are ablaze with colour from hanging baskets but are still impressive in the winter months. There's an abundance of pavement cafés and wine bars and the Courtyard is a delightful shopping centre. At the end of Montpellier Street is a good view of Cheltenham Ladies' College (pictured below, right), with its copper dome and the Princess Hall. Turn right and join the tree-lined Promenade, one of the finest shopping areas in the country. The avenue of elms and horse chestnuts was planted in 1818; Neptune's Fountain, modelled on the Trevi Fountain in Rome, was added in 1893.
7. Arts and crafts
Turn left soon after the Tourist Information office and bear right when you reach Royal Crescent Street .
Turn left where the road joins Clarence Street for the Cheltenham Art Gallery and Museum.
The Cheltenham Art Gallery and Museum here (pictured above, left) is host to a world-renowned Arts & Crafts Movement collection, including local furniture and metalwork. It also contains rare Chinese and English pottery and exhibits 300 years of painting by Dutch and British artists. From December 2001 to March 2002 there will be an exhibition of
drawings by Gloucestershire-born artist and naturalist Edward Wilson, a member of Captain's Scott's 'Discovery' expedition, of which Wilson was a member.
8. An older Cheltenham
Turn left out of the Museum and immediately left again when you will see the mediaeval church of St Mary's.
The town's oldest building, it houses memorials associated with Henry Skillicome, the founder of the spa. Continue on to the High Street, turn right and then first left up North Street which takes you back to the car park on North Place. |
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Distance 3 miles
Time 3-5 hours
Start/Finish North Place Car Park, Cheltenham
Suitable for All the family
Attractions
Pittville Pump Room Museum
Tel 01242 523852
Holst Birthplace Museum
Tel 01242 524846
Cheltenham Art Gallery and Museum
Tel 01242 237431
Pittville Pump Room Museum
Tel 01242 523852
Holst Birthplace Museum
Tel 01242 524846
Information
Cheltenham Tourist Information Centre
Tel 01242 522878
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