With a long coastline and England uncomfortably close, Ayrshire is packed with castles designed to keep its old enemy out and allies within, when stunning sea views could be transformed into a Trafalgar-type nightmare in the blink of an eye. Today, the only inconvenience of the sea’s proximity is the occasional salty breeze, but the elegance of Culzean and the weathered beauty of Dunure soon make up for the need for that extra jumper. Exploring inland, you’ll find dramatic Doon Castle, well-armoured Dean Castle and the spiritual Crossraguel Abbey. It was in this huge monastery that the Cluniacs worshipped with devotion and style. To get to the root of secular Ayrshire life, stop off at Dalgarven Mill.

1 Culzean Castle
This 18th-century castle was designed by Robert Adams, one of the most successful architects of his day. Described as ‘the essence of his romantic vision’, Culzean is spectacularly perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the Firth of Clyde. Stark seaward views contrast with the castle’s internal splendour. The imaginatively conceived oval staircase, with light filtering in from above, is the castle’s natural centre. For a taste of the unusual take a look at the armoury, established by the 12th Earl of Cassillis. The artistic display is the largest collection of its type in existence, apart from the Queen’s at Windsor. Lady Ailsa’s boudoir has a softer appeal, containing a 19th-century boat-shaped cradle. The castle grounds contain acres of parkland and decorative gardens, while the cliff walk offers panoramic views.

2 Loch Doon Castle
Built in the early 14th century on a large island in the loch, in the 1930s the castle was threatened with submersion by an hydroelectric scheme. The scheme went ahead but the castle survived by being dismantled and rebuilt 100 metres away at a new location on the shore. Although a simple polygon shape, the castle was an elaborate design for its time. But it could not protect Sir Christopher Seton, one of Robert the Bruce’s staunchest allies. He sought protection there after the disastrous battle of Methuen in 1306, where Robert the Bruce’s supporters were defeated by the English. He reached Loch Doon in the dead of night but was betrayed by his steward Arthur Carrick to the pursuing English. It was an ugly incident in one of Ayrshire’s most beautiful locations.

3 Crossraguel Abbey
Founded by Duncan, Lord of Carrick, in the 13th century, Crossraguel is one of the most complete medieval monasteries in Scotland. It was home to the Cluniac order who believed that God deserved only the best. This belief is apparent in the elaborate architecture, which still impresses today. The oldest parts of the abbey are the 13th-century north and south transepts, but the 16th-century gatehouse also grabs the visitor’s attention. It was the entrance to the residence of Abbot William Kennedy, Guardian of the third Earl of Cassillis, and rises grandly above earlier ruins. Plaques provide discreet and illuminating snippets of information – a dingy room turns out to be a 14th-century treasury, while nearby is the inner parlour where conversation, strictly forbidden in the cloister, was permitted. Also look out for the beautifully constructed 15th-century sedilia (stone seats), used by the clergy officiating at the high altar.

4 Dean Castle
Dean Castle was the ancestral home of the Boyds and has a stark 14th-century fortified keep and 15th-century palace. Robert the Bruce gave the land to the family as thanks for its support in the Wars of Independence and the castle grew in importance in subsequent centuries. It boasts connections with the Stuart kings of Scotland and Bonnie Prince Charlie. The eighth Lord de Walden’s collection of arms, armour and tapestries are on display – look out for the swords and Oriental edged weapons. If music attracts you more than war, be sure to visit the castle’s internationally important collection of early musical instruments. The 200-acre country park includes cycle tracks, picnic sites and a death slide. Children can also meet Scott the Clydesdale horse, April the Donkey, and others in the pet corner.

5 Dalgarven Mill
Celebrating an age of ‘honest work and poverty’, Dalgarven Mill transports you back in time. Mannequins model a changing exhibition of costumes in the first room, drawn from a collection of more than 6000 outfits dating from 1775 to 1980. Upstairs, the fabric theme continues: a collection of Ayrshire embroidery shows that working hands could still produce delicate work. The mill also hosts a large collection of tools, photos and memorabilia. The honorary curator and chairman, Robert Ferguson, made it his life-long work to restore the mill. It belonged to his great grandfather and was in danger of destruction before he stepped in. The mill opened to visitors in 1987 as a private concern and became a Trust in 1994.

6 Dunure Castle
Accessed by a spectacular coastal road, Dunure Castle is a pleasure to track down. The original edifice was pre-13th century, with the Gaelic name ‘dun – ure’ meaning ‘fort of the yew tree’, but little remains from such times. Left to fall to ruin in the mid-17th century, the castle has recently benefited from restoration work.
Information boards trace this process, but the writing is so small you’ll need good eyesight. Dunure was the ancient seat of the powerful Kennedys of Carrick, subsequently Earls of Cassillis. The fourth Earl of Cassillis entertained Mary Queen of Scots in the castle in 1563, but not everyone received such generous treatment – he also had the Commendator of Crossraguel Abbey ‘roasted in sop’ until he signed over the Abbey’s lands. The Earl was later fined and instructed to pay the Commendator a pension, but he still got to keep the lands.